Jungsik: A Restaurant in Need of a Hotel? (food)

Please note that this meal took place a few months ago, before it got reviewed in the New York Times. It's entirely possible that my comments and concerns below have already been addressed.

I normally don't go to high end restaurants for the first time until they've been in business for at least 9 months. I want to make sure that they are not just a flash in the pan, and I want them to work out any kinks in service so that I can get the experience that they really want to deliver. There are some exceptions, and this was one of them. I had heard very good things about the food from trusted sources, and given its unique cuisine, I wasn't sure it would last 9 months. Even after going and enjoying food that was at times remarkable, I'm still not sure about the restaurant's longevity.

The service was green to say the least, and that's being very kind. It's possible that our server was a trainee, but the lack of knowledge and skill was very conspicuous. I still remember a few of the errors. When we were served our black cod entree, it was described as cod, and when I asked to confirm that it was black cod (which is sable, and not actually cod), our server said that he would have to ask what kind of cod it was. Later, when I asked if our Korean green tea was loose-leaf picked, he had to go back and ask what brand the tea was. And then at the end, he flubbed around for quite a bit as he tried to transport our mignardises using two spoons as tongs.

The most glaring thing about our meal there was that during prime time on a Thursday night (prime business dinner night), half the restaurant was still empty. Of those who were there, only two tables had men in suits. If you're going to charge these kinds of prices ($120ish set meals), you just cannot survive (especially in Tribeca) if you aren't getting business/client dinners.

That's why I think the best solution for them is to find a nice hotel that they can partner with. The hotel staff can certainly help with the skilled server issue, while the built-in guest clientele is much needed for the restaurant. The restaurant that I feel it should draw the most comparison to is Asiate. Just like Jungsik, many will bungle the pronunciation of the name, but at least Asiate can simply be referred to as the asian restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental hotel. Sure, the chef might have to do a few more "conventional" "asian-fusion" type dishes, but it would still be a great platform for introducing people to his unique style of cuisine.

Regardless of its durability as a business, the food is in fact delicious and at times quite remarkable.

The tasting menu begins with an array of amuse bouche. Pictured here are grape salad, tofu, sweet potato, and fried chicken. All very delicious bites of food.

For our friend with a gluten allergy, they made her grilled chicken instead of fried, and this mini version of their four seasons salad.

Bulgogi sliders. I do not know if that little sliver underneath the bulgogi was cheese, and I wonder whether they know that that's also a no-no for some Jewish diners they might have.

BIBIM - TOMATO, BASIL SORBET
For our first course, we all chose the signature bibim salad. When mixed together, this provided a wonderful array of fresh flavors, textures, and temperature contrasts.

SEA URCHIN - KOREAN SEAWEED RICE, CRISPY QUINOA

Here is the rice and quinoa ready to be mixed with the sea urchin. Mixing is a large part of some of the better dishes here, incorporating flavors and textures into unique combinations.

CHAMPS-ELYSEES - FOIE GRAS, KIMCHI
The power of mixing was most evident here in this dish, where the foie provided a very unique creaminess to the crunchiness of the rest of the ingredients. The dish was rich without being heavy.

ANCHOVY - TRADITIONAL CLEAR BROTH

ARCTIC CHAR - KIMCHI SABAYON

CLASSIC FISH - BLACK COD, RED PEPPER SOY

TRIBECA LOBSTER - BUTTER POACHED, KOREAN MUSTARD
The lobster was poached well enough, but I just didn't feel that the mustard sauce went well with it, even though I'm a fan of mustard.

CRISPY SNAPPER - SPICY CILANTRO SAUCE
A very unique preparation, with the crispiness coming from frying the scales.

FIVE SENSE PORK BELLY - SPICY, CRUNCHY, SOUR, SOFT, SWEET
Unfortunately, we felt that at least one of the senses fell flat as the pork belly wasn't crunchy enough, and I don't recall much sourness.

CLASSIC GALBI - BEEF SHORT RIB, RICE CAKE BALL
This had a very good flavor, but I wasn't able to determine that it was better than any of the myriad galbi/short rib preparations out there. I did like the rice cake ball, and liked the texture much more than say the rice cakes in Momofuku's dishes.

PREDESSERT
Don't recall, but nothing remarkable.

GREEN TEA CREMEUX - SWEET RED BEAN, ROASTED SOY ICE CREAM
Good assortment of "asian" dessert flavors, though I didn't find the textures to be special and would've preferred a heartier roasted flavor in the ice cream.

PUMPKIN PANNA COTTA - CINNAMON CRUMBLE, AMARETTO PANNA COTTA

APPLE RICE WINE BABA - CALVADOS CREAM
This was a rather interesting dessert in terms of texture and temperature, but the flavors are not my favorite.

MIGNARDISES

My favorites were the appetizer and rice/noodle dishes, where the power of mixing the ingredients created unique and remarkable combinations. The proteins were good, but not at the level of a restaurant with these kinds of aspirations. Which goes back to the main point. What does this restaurant aspire to be? If it aspires to be Per Se, it needs a reality check. If it aspires to be a very good restaurant that allows the chef to introduce people to his unique cuisine, I feel that it can be done. However, I feel that they cannot do it alone on the path that they are currently on.

You Never Forget Your First (food)

I recently heard from a very knowledgeable source that L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in the Four Seasons Hotel will close very soon. Even though it is not a particularly popular restaurant with foodies, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon holds a very dear place in my heart. It was my first experience with the highest levels of modern cuisine.

It was almost a decade ago that I was in Paris for the World Junior (Under 26) Bridge Championships. I had done my research and knew that L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon was the restaurant I wanted to go to. Back then there were only two of them, one in Paris and one in Japan. I can still remember digging deep into my high school French to decipher the menu as none of the servers spoke English. I remember one of the servers gesturing at her throat in an attempt to explain sweetbreads to us. But most importantly I remember food so flavorful and delicious that we had to return the next day for lunch before leaving Paris.

The memories were so strong that when L'Atelier opened in NYC I did not hesitate to go, even with the prohibitive NYC prices. I remember eating truffle bread from their bread selection, which they stopped making soon after as it was too expensive. I remember just walking in and sitting at the counter around the open kitchen, and then being unable to do so once 2006 rolled in and the market did nothing but go straight up. But I guess times have indeed changed if they are unable to be profitable even with the stock market testing back near the highs again.

Even though the one in NYC is closing, there is comfort in the knowledge that there are still many more around the world. It really does not matter too much which L'Atelier you go to. I've been to the ones in Paris, New York, Hong Kong, and Las Vegas, and the menus don't really change. Perhaps that (and the exorbitant prices) is why it is not as popular in this day and age, what with the big locavore movement and the constantly blurring line between foodies and hipsters.

The meal begins with excellent bread. Another thing that hasn't changed much since the beginning. The crunchy mini baguettes were exactly as I remembered them.

LES LEGUMES DE SAISON - SEASONAL VEGETABLES SLOWLY COOKED WITH OLIVE OIL
Even though I tend to associate L'Atelier with gut-busting French food, they do have some lighter fare.

LA SUCRINE - BABY GEM NICOISE SALAD WITH CONFIT TUNA BELLY

LA LANGOUSTINE - CRISPY LANGOUSTINE PAPILLOTE WITH BASIL PESTO
One of the signature dishes from the very beginning, and just as intensely flavored as I remember it. A meaty piece of perfectly cooked langoustine in a crispy yet not oily fried skin, balanced beautifully with the earthy basil pesto.

LES SPAGHETTIS - SPAGHETTI WITH MOREL MUSHROOMS, ENGLISH PEAS, VIN JAUNE
While I've never ordered spaghetti at L'Atelier due to the cost (this was $38), this did look simple and delicious.

LE RIS DE VEAU - SWEETBREADS WITH A SPRIG OF FRESH LAUREL, STUFFED ROMAINE LETTUCE
Whether it was a tiny sliver of veal at the Mansion in Las Vegas or veal sweetbreads at L'Atelier in Paris or in NYC, the most flavorful veal I've ever had by far has always been at Joel Robuchon's restaurants.

LE ZEPHYR AU FROMAGE - GRUYERE CHEESE SOUFFLE, JULIENNE OF IBERICO HAM, FRISEE SALAD
This was good, but not as mind-blowing as I was expecting from the description of the dish.

LES BURGERS - BEEF AND FOIE GRAS BURGERS WITH LIGHTLY CARAMELIZED BELL PEPPERS
Another signature since the very beginning, this is my must-order item. Intensely rich yet balanced just right with the peppers without the need for sweet or tart flavors to cut the richness. Deeply satisfying. The homemade ginger ketchup and fries are delicious too.

A closeup of the burger. Look at the huge slab of foie gras!

L'ONGLET - 6OZ ROASTED WAGYU HANGER STEAK, WASABI SPINACH AND HARELQUIN PEPPERS
Deeply flavorful with excellent tenderness for hanger steak. The wasabi spinach was a great accompaniment.

LE BOEUF - 4OZ SLICED WAGYU RIBEYE, SAUTEED SHALLOTS AND SHISITO PEPPERS

LE BAR - ROASTED SEA BASS, LIGHTLY SAUTEED VEGETABLES, BARIGOULE JUS

LA CAILLE - FREE RANGE QUAIL STUFFED WITH FOIE GRAS, POTATO PUREE
Another of the early signatures, this small tasting portion of the quail was full of flavor, even though it is no longer my favorite preparation of quail stuffed with foie gras (new favorite is at SHO). Accompanying this dish is the one dish most associated with Robuchon's cooking, the heart attack in a bowl potato puree concoction that is more cream and butter than potato. So worth the artery clogging.

PREDESSERT
I forget what this was, but it was refreshing. I also realize that I forgot to photograph the amuse, an unbelievably delicious parfait of parmesan foam, foie gras, and port reduction.

CHEESE COURSE

LE CHOCOLAT - CHOCOLATE CUSTARD, LIGHT ALMOND "PANNA COTTA", CHOCOLATE POP ROCKS, MILK ICE CREAM
A delicious assortment of tastes and textures perfect for those who like chocolate but aren't crazy for it.

LE TENDANCE - CHOCOLATE CREAM, BITTER CHOCOLATE SORBET AND OREO COOKIES
Much stronger in chocolate flavor.

LE SOUFFLE - CALVADOS SOUFFLE WITH CARAMEL ICE CREAM

LE SPHERE - WHITE CHOCOLATE SPHERE FILLED WITH RASPBERRY FLAVORS AND YUZU ICE CREAM
A good combination of rich and light flavors. I remember when this used to be called LA SUCRE, focusing on the sugar-spun sphere that gleamed like a large christmas tree ornament. This sugar sphere was one of the original signature dishes unique to the NYC branch, before they took it off the menu for a while because it took a lot of effort to make.

The prices are exorbitant, but the food is delicious. If you've never tried the signature dishes, it's worth trying them at least once. Or if you just want to relive tastes and memories like I did, it's most certainly worth revisiting before it's gone.

Can Popovich do what Belichick hasn't been able to? (sports, gambling)

The similarities between the Popovich Spurs and the Belichick Patriots are quite uncanny.

Both teams have "dynasties" that have lasted more than a decade.
Neither team has had a losing (rebuilding) regular season during its run.
Both teams have had one superstar player as the main support throughout. (Brady/Duncan)
Both teams are system-based and have plugged all kinds of no-name players into productive roles.
Both teams have had rule changes made because of thir strategies. (illegal contact/2 minute away from ball foul)
Both coaches say very little to the press.
Both teams started out being known for defense and have since turned into offensive juggernauts.

It is this last point that is the most interesting to me right now. Since Belichick turned the New England Patriots into a super offensive team, they have not been able to win another championship. The question is whether the San Antonio Spurs will similarly fall short.

I do think whoever comes out of the West will win it all, and I do think the Spurs will come out on top. If nothing else, this will come down to home court advantage and the Spurs have been extra dominant at home for as long as I can remember. I am very excited for the final four teams and do think there will be many enjoyable hard fought battles. However, I also think that the Spurs have to best chance of consistently blowing out opponents with their deep and unstoppable offense and solid defensive fundamentals. Tonight should be the first example of that as I predict the Spurs to win by double digits in Game 1 against the OKC Thunder. The current line is SAS-5.5

Another Year Playing the ICBL (bridge)

This was my third full season representing the Harvard Club in the Inter-Club Bridge League. We were lucky enough to win the regular season by half a board (same result as last season), the trophy for best pairs performance, and a tie for the overall championship in the playoffs. Here is a key hand against the team we tied with. There were no hand records so details are as best as I can remember.



-100 turned out to win the board as our teammates played in clubs making +110. Of course if -100 was the goal to start with there was a much easier way to do that, but this deal illustrates how bridge is a game where more and more information is continually revealed and used throughout the hand.

I'm Back!

It's been more than two months since I last posted, but I'm back now. Work has been very busy and continues to be busy, but I will try my best to update, even though it'll probably still be less frequent than before. For food, I will try to catch up by posting some meals of the past half year that I haven't gotten around to. For sports, I think I will try to start writing about baseball again once the NBA season is over. No promises, but I'll do what I can. Cheers!