Thursday, June 7, 2018

I've Been to Le Coq Rico A Few Times (food)

I don't eat out much in the city any more, but the last few times that I have done so have been at Le Coq Rico. It's a very nice fine-dining lite restaurant that costs a good amount more than your typical NYC neighborhood French restaurant, but a bit less than a restaurant like the NoMad (which I need to revisit although there's less of a draw now that James Kent has left the kitchen). The owner/chef Antoine Westermann is a former 3 Michelin Star holder who gave back his stars, did some consulting, then opened Le Coq Rico in Paris focusing on quality poultry. It's been 2 years since he opened the NYC branch of this wonderful restaurant. Everything I've had has been very good, though some dishes are better than others. Highly recommended. Here are some dishes from multiple visits.

LEEKS VINAIGRETTE
A beautiful mix of warm salad, cold leeks, a nice Hollandaise sauce, and some (not overpowering) acidity from the vinaigrette. Simple yet tasty starter.

THE GIBLETS PLATTER: DUCK LIVER, APPLE, AND HEART BROCHETTE; GLAZED WINGS; ROASTED CHICKEN LIVER ON HORSERADISH TOAST; SPICED CROQUETTES
Probably the best value on the menu, with two of everything so you can share. I love offal and giblets so this was perfect for me.


THOMAS FARM SQUAB EN CROUTE (ONLY HALF PICTURED)
Probably my favorite thing on the menu, a phenomenal dish that is classic French cooking at its core. Tender, flavorful squab meat accompanied by some force meat, foie gras, wrapped in cabbage and cooked in pastry. Absolutely rich and delicious.

WESTERMANN’S BAECKEOFFE (FOR 4)
WHOLE BRUNE LANDAISE (120 DAYS) CHICKEN BAKED IN TRADITIONAL ALSATIAN EARTHENWARE
WITH ARTICHOKES, DRIED TOMATOES, LEMON CONFIT AND RIESLING JUS
If you're questioning whether one chicken will feed 4, please note that the restaurant focuses on older birds and their chickens probably average near 7lbs. This was a nice dish and very homey. However, I don't think it's special enough that I would order it again at the price.

WHOLE ROHAN FARM DUCK (12 DAYS)
Very delicious duck. The only thing that's missing for me is crispy skin. I prefer duck skin that's crispy to the point of being lacquered, and this didn't have that. But it's not a deal breaker since the meat had great flavor.

L'ILE FLOTTANTE
Another signature of the restaurant, and another French classic. Here the meringue is one huge fluffy ball that's extremely light and airy, surrounded by a rich creme anglaise and dotted with candied almonds for crunch. I've gotten it every visit and it wows.

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