And so, four teams remain...
Memphis Grizzlies (5) at San Antonio Spurs (2)
As much as I would like to see the Grizzlies win as I think they're the only team left that could beat Miami, I just don't see them getting past San Antonio. The Spurs should be able to shoot just well enough to hold off the stifling Grizzlies defense, while the Memphis offense can't put up big numbers like Golden State did which caused all kinds of trouble for San Antonio. Both of these teams play exceptionally well at home, so I see this series going the same way the regular season series did, with each team winning all their home games.
Prediction: San Antonio 4-3
Possible bets: Bet San Antonio to win the series. Current price around -140.
Indiana Pacers (3) at Miami Heat (1)
The Pacers match up pretty well with the Heat, with good interior size and tough defense that aims to slow down opponents' transition baskets. However, they face the same problem that the Grizzlies have against the Spurs in that they play exceptionally well at home but don't have home court advantage for the series. Indiana still looks like it's missing that one final piece to get them to the next level.
Prediction: Miami 4-3
Possible bets: Bet the under on every game. I think there are going to be a lot of quarters where both teams score less than 20 points.
Let's look back and see how my second round predictions went.
Overall Series Predictions vs Actual Result:
Prediction Memphis 4-2, Actual Memphis 4-1
Prediction San Antonio 4-1, Actual San Antonio 4-2
Prediction Miami 4-1, Actual Miami 4-1
Prediction Indiana 4-2, Actual Indiana 4-2
Those predictions were pretty spot on. I got all the winners right, two of the series exactly, and the other two series were only off by one game each. Much of the analysis hit the mark as well, including Golden State's sloppy play costing them (lost 14 point lead with 4 minutes left in game 1), and Indiana stealing a game on the road early before winning all their home games. Let's see if I did as well on the bets:
MEM to win the series. Win one unit.
Over in GSW@SAS games. 2-4 for the series.
MIA 4-1 specifically. Won, but not all books have these bets.
Under in IND@NYK games. 3-2-1 for the series.
IND to win the series. Odds were at about +150, so win 1.5 units.
Overall results: 7-6-1 +0.9 units
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Early Mother's Day Dinner at Yakitori Totto (food)
Those who know me personally or have read enough of my food reviews should know that I can eat a large amount of food in one sitting. So when I recently took my mother to Yakitori Totto for an early mother's day dinner, I ended up having 28 skewers while my mom had 27. Trust me when I say that this is not normal. However, it also means I have notes on most of the menu.
I already had a good idea that we were going to eat a lot of skewers, so I put together a game plan to tackle it in 4 waves. Even though the skewers were served as soon as they were ready, the pacing was pretty good overall, and we only asked the chef to slow down a few times during the meal. Since chicken is usually the main focus of yakitori, we started off with skewers of various parts of the chicken.
LIVER $3
With a sprinkle of salt, this had a robust mineral flavor and a nice soft, yet rich texture.
CHICKEN OYSTER $3
I always thought of the oyster (a rare part near the thigh revered for its tenderness) like a filet of beef. Tender, but not memorable as it's not particularly flavorful. Here they did a masterful job with a little bit of sauce and salt, and added to the texture by crisping up the outside. About as perfect as I would have imagined chicken oyster could be.
TAIL $3
This had a rather unique, but enjoyable, texture that was not quite like fat and not quite like collagen, but along those lines.
NECK $3
The meat was tender and silky, streaked with fat but without that fatty mouth feel. I also appreciated the delicate cutting and portioning that went on before it was skewered.
SKIN $3
The fragrant smell of grilled fat hits your nose immediately. The skin is crispy and the fat is somewhat rendered, but there is still a rich oiliness to each bite.
SOFT KNEE BONE $3.50
It was like eating chicken feet in a (good) way. Trying to get what little meat there was off the bone while biting through little bits of cartilage and soft tissue.
HEARTS $3
This was one of our favorites. Excellent texture that was toothsome but tender. Great flavor like you would expect from inner organs without being too strong.
THIGH $3
The chicken thigh pieces came with pieces of grilled onion in between pieces of meat. The sweetness of the onion worked well in highlighting the aroma of the tender chicken.
As we finished up the different cuts of chicken, our second wave involved seafood and vegetables.
SHIITAKE $3
Nice and plump, but rather simple.
SCALLOP $5
It looked like one decent-sized scallop that was thinly cut across into thirds. This allowed it to not get overcooked and remained sweet and juicy. I was disappointed that there was no coral (roe sac), which I've had before among the yakitori offerings at Soba Totto.
GARLIC $2.50
Another fragrant offering, the flavor was not overpowering at all as the cloves were served whole. The charred skin offered a hint of smokiness when I bit into it to extract the clove inside.
SHISHITO TSUKUNE $4.50
The shishito peppers were flavorful without being assertive, creating a delicate balance with the chicken meatball stuffed in it. The texture match was also great, and everything came together completely in each bite.
KURUMA EBI $7
Perfectly cooked meat with the head still slightly runny. It smelled great and was a sizeable prawn, but did feel a tad expensive all things considered.
SMELT $4
This was lightly salted and not fishy at all. Smelt has lots of roe, so it could be a surprising texture for those who haven't had it before.
GINGKO NUTS $3
Another possibly surprising taste for someone who's never had it before. It has a unique flavor that can be a little nutty, a little bittersweet, and a finish that reminded me of corn flavors.
Our third wave consisted mainly of heavier proteins such as pork and beef.
KALBI $4.50
Chose this one with salt as opposed to sauce, and the salt comes through slowly, creating a very appetizing feeling with each bite.
PORK MUSTARD $3.50
The sweet sauce balanced well with the spicy mustard, coming together with the robust but not too fatty pork.
LAMB LEG STEAK $5
This was one of the specials of the day. You don't really get much with the initial bite, but there is a lot of concentrated lamb flavor that comes out slowly. I thought the subtlety was great as I'm used to eating lamb where the flavors come at you pretty hard.
PORK NECK $3.50
Great flavor and texture, although I didn't think the onion fit in as well with this one as it did the other skewers.
BACON WRAPPED ENOKI $4
The bacon was not too assertive and didn't mask the lighter tasting enoki. The mushroom was tender without being stringy or chewy as it often can be. Perhaps they cut it finely lengthwise before wrapping it. EDIT: Looking back, I think these were eringi (king oyster mushroom) and not enoki.
DUCK WITH SCALLION $4
This was one of those moments where we had to ask the chef to slow down as the pork neck, bacon enoki, and duck all arrived almost at the same time. I believe that was to blame for my lack of a picture. The duck had a rich flavor without being fatty while the scallion was a good foil.
BEEF TONGUE $6
This was the most disappointing skewer of the night. While the initial chews were fine, it just didn't melt away in the mouth like I've often come to expect of beef tongue, and became a chore to finish.
SUKIYAKI $8
This one really felt like a complete dish. Excellent wagyu beef wrapped around enoki (eringi?) and vegetables was accompanied by some lightly grilled firm tofu in a very sweet and hearty sauce. It was very satisfying and a great skewer to have near the end of the meal. It's one of the more expensive skewers on the menu as it has wagyu beef, but well worth it.
The final wave consisted of repeats of the ones we liked most, including the chicken hearts, kalbi, shishito tsukune, and chicken thigh. This time around, two of the peppers on my shishito skewer were very spicy! I wonder if they just hadn't cleaned out the seeds properly.
LAMB CHOP $7
I also wanted a repeat of the lamb leg steak, but the server misheard me and brought us the lamb chops. Contrary to the subtle lamb leg steak skewer, this one had a very strong flavor that hits you right in the face as the dish arrives. The meat is well done, but tender, and has a decent charred flavor. At $7 per chop, it's much cheaper than a steakhouse, but compared to all the other skewers on offer, I didn't think it was worth it.
Overall it was a great meal with lots of yummy food. The variety on offer was great, but what I really enjoyed was that many of the skewers were well composed and balanced in their own right, not just one random cut of meat among many.
Yakitori Totto
251 W 55th St between Broadway & 8th Ave
2nd Fl
Manhattan 10019
I already had a good idea that we were going to eat a lot of skewers, so I put together a game plan to tackle it in 4 waves. Even though the skewers were served as soon as they were ready, the pacing was pretty good overall, and we only asked the chef to slow down a few times during the meal. Since chicken is usually the main focus of yakitori, we started off with skewers of various parts of the chicken.
With a sprinkle of salt, this had a robust mineral flavor and a nice soft, yet rich texture.
I always thought of the oyster (a rare part near the thigh revered for its tenderness) like a filet of beef. Tender, but not memorable as it's not particularly flavorful. Here they did a masterful job with a little bit of sauce and salt, and added to the texture by crisping up the outside. About as perfect as I would have imagined chicken oyster could be.
This had a rather unique, but enjoyable, texture that was not quite like fat and not quite like collagen, but along those lines.
The meat was tender and silky, streaked with fat but without that fatty mouth feel. I also appreciated the delicate cutting and portioning that went on before it was skewered.
The fragrant smell of grilled fat hits your nose immediately. The skin is crispy and the fat is somewhat rendered, but there is still a rich oiliness to each bite.
It was like eating chicken feet in a (good) way. Trying to get what little meat there was off the bone while biting through little bits of cartilage and soft tissue.
This was one of our favorites. Excellent texture that was toothsome but tender. Great flavor like you would expect from inner organs without being too strong.
The chicken thigh pieces came with pieces of grilled onion in between pieces of meat. The sweetness of the onion worked well in highlighting the aroma of the tender chicken.
As we finished up the different cuts of chicken, our second wave involved seafood and vegetables.
Nice and plump, but rather simple.
It looked like one decent-sized scallop that was thinly cut across into thirds. This allowed it to not get overcooked and remained sweet and juicy. I was disappointed that there was no coral (roe sac), which I've had before among the yakitori offerings at Soba Totto.
Another fragrant offering, the flavor was not overpowering at all as the cloves were served whole. The charred skin offered a hint of smokiness when I bit into it to extract the clove inside.
The shishito peppers were flavorful without being assertive, creating a delicate balance with the chicken meatball stuffed in it. The texture match was also great, and everything came together completely in each bite.
Perfectly cooked meat with the head still slightly runny. It smelled great and was a sizeable prawn, but did feel a tad expensive all things considered.
This was lightly salted and not fishy at all. Smelt has lots of roe, so it could be a surprising texture for those who haven't had it before.
Another possibly surprising taste for someone who's never had it before. It has a unique flavor that can be a little nutty, a little bittersweet, and a finish that reminded me of corn flavors.
Our third wave consisted mainly of heavier proteins such as pork and beef.
Chose this one with salt as opposed to sauce, and the salt comes through slowly, creating a very appetizing feeling with each bite.
The sweet sauce balanced well with the spicy mustard, coming together with the robust but not too fatty pork.
This was one of the specials of the day. You don't really get much with the initial bite, but there is a lot of concentrated lamb flavor that comes out slowly. I thought the subtlety was great as I'm used to eating lamb where the flavors come at you pretty hard.
Great flavor and texture, although I didn't think the onion fit in as well with this one as it did the other skewers.
The bacon was not too assertive and didn't mask the lighter tasting enoki. The mushroom was tender without being stringy or chewy as it often can be. Perhaps they cut it finely lengthwise before wrapping it. EDIT: Looking back, I think these were eringi (king oyster mushroom) and not enoki.
DUCK WITH SCALLION $4
This was one of those moments where we had to ask the chef to slow down as the pork neck, bacon enoki, and duck all arrived almost at the same time. I believe that was to blame for my lack of a picture. The duck had a rich flavor without being fatty while the scallion was a good foil.
This was the most disappointing skewer of the night. While the initial chews were fine, it just didn't melt away in the mouth like I've often come to expect of beef tongue, and became a chore to finish.
This one really felt like a complete dish. Excellent wagyu beef wrapped around enoki (eringi?) and vegetables was accompanied by some lightly grilled firm tofu in a very sweet and hearty sauce. It was very satisfying and a great skewer to have near the end of the meal. It's one of the more expensive skewers on the menu as it has wagyu beef, but well worth it.
The final wave consisted of repeats of the ones we liked most, including the chicken hearts, kalbi, shishito tsukune, and chicken thigh. This time around, two of the peppers on my shishito skewer were very spicy! I wonder if they just hadn't cleaned out the seeds properly.
I also wanted a repeat of the lamb leg steak, but the server misheard me and brought us the lamb chops. Contrary to the subtle lamb leg steak skewer, this one had a very strong flavor that hits you right in the face as the dish arrives. The meat is well done, but tender, and has a decent charred flavor. At $7 per chop, it's much cheaper than a steakhouse, but compared to all the other skewers on offer, I didn't think it was worth it.
Overall it was a great meal with lots of yummy food. The variety on offer was great, but what I really enjoyed was that many of the skewers were well composed and balanced in their own right, not just one random cut of meat among many.
Yakitori Totto
251 W 55th St between Broadway & 8th Ave
2nd Fl
Manhattan 10019
Monday, May 13, 2013
McDonald's is Cheap Again (food)
For many years, I never quite understood the continued appeal of McDonald's. I enjoyed the occasional McRib and Shamrock Shake, but with most meals going in the $5 range, I didn't feel that McDonald's was good enough or cheap enough to warrant continued patronage. That changed a little when they revamped their Dollar Menu. With McDoubles and 4-piece McNuggets going for $1 each, it became cheap enough to say, "Sure, why not?".
The revamped dollar menu has been so successful (for corporate, although some franchisees would beg to differ) that just recently, McDonald's has cut some of their premium options from their menu, including the Angus Third Pounders, Chicken Selects, and Fruit & Walnut Salad.
So I passed by my local McDonald's and saw this. Even if McDonald's has focused on being cheap again, this may be going too far. For a limited time, at participating McDonald's, the family combo of 2 Big Macs, 2 McChickens, 4 small sodas and 4 small fries costs only $9.99! Even I couldn't resist!
My guess is that these combos are being tested in certain regions across the US, but I'd be curious if they make a big nation-wide push with this.
The revamped dollar menu has been so successful (for corporate, although some franchisees would beg to differ) that just recently, McDonald's has cut some of their premium options from their menu, including the Angus Third Pounders, Chicken Selects, and Fruit & Walnut Salad.
My guess is that these combos are being tested in certain regions across the US, but I'd be curious if they make a big nation-wide push with this.
Saturday, May 4, 2013
2012-2013 NBA Playoffs Round 2 Preview (sport, gambling)
Let's get right to it.
Memphis Grizzlies (5) at Oklahoma City Thunder (1)
While Memphis has the best defense in the league, it has only one real perimeter defensive stopper in Tony Allen. With Westbrook out, he can concentrate on just Durant. I don't see where the offense is going to come from on the Thunder against this tough Grizzlies defense. Memphis played them tough 2 seasons ago, and I think both Tony Allen and Marc Gasol have improved significantly since then while the Thunder is a much weaker team now.
Prediction: Memphis 4-2
Possible bets: Bet Memphis to win the series. Current price around -125.
Golden State Warriors (6) at San Antonio Spurs (2)
I loved watching the Warriors play in the first round, and Steph Curry is just amazing. But they did have many bouts of sloppy play, and that just won't do against San Antonio. Duncan has been the only real interior defensive presence for the Spurs this year, and the Warriors' lineup plays right into that. Golden State has an exciting team, but it's just not their time yet.
Prediction: San Antonio 4-1
Possible bets: Bet the over on every game. I expect an ungodly amount of three pointers made in this series.
Chicago Bulls (5) at Miami Heat (1)
Chicago actually matches up very well against Miami. They are super stingy on 3 point defense, and Miami's game revolves around a lot of open 3s. Chicago is tough and has strong inside presence versus the Heat's rather thin front line. Unfortunately, the Bulls are super banged up after a grueling series with the Nets. I think the Bulls' hard work ethic and Thibodeau's defensive smarts will keep them from getting swept, but I don't see them lasting longer than 5 games with all their lingering injuries.
Prediction: Miami 4-1
Possible bets: If you can find a book with exact series outcome props, bet Miami to win the series by exactly 4-1.
Indiana Pacers (3) at New York Knicks (2)
I think Bill Simmons summed it up perfectly in his Grantland article.
Prediction: Indiana 4-2
Possible bets: Bet the under on every game. Indiana's defense is a given, but the Knicks also showed their defensive prowess against Boston. I would also take Indiana to win the series.
While we're at it, let's see how my first round predictions for the Western and Eastern conferences went.
Overall Series Predictions vs Actual Result:
Prediction Oklahoma City 4-0, Actual Oklahoma City 4-2
Prediction San Antonio 4-0, Actual San Antonio 4-0
Prediction Denver 4-3, Actual Golden State 4-2
Prediction Memphis 4-2 or LA 4-3, Actual Memphis 4-2
Prediction Miami 4-0, Actual Miami 4-0
Prediction New York 4-2, Actual New York 4-2
Prediction Indiana 4-1, Actual Indiana 4-2
Prediction Brooklyn 4-2, Actual Chicago 4-3
I think I did pretty well overall. Let's look at how the bets did:
Over in HOU@OKC games. 1-5 for the series, 0-2 if stopped after Westbrook went down.
Over in LAL@SAS games. 2-2 for the series.
GSW to win the series. At +400, good for 4 units.
MEM 4-2 or LAC 4-3 specifically. Won, but not all books have these bets.
MIL ML+Over parlays for @MIL games small. 0-2. Assume half unit on each bet.
BOS in first @BOS game. 0-1
IND to win the series. Win one unit.
BKN 1H in @BKN games. 2-2 for the series.
Overall results: 7-11 -2.1 unit. 6-9 +0.2 units (Westbrook only)
Memphis Grizzlies (5) at Oklahoma City Thunder (1)
While Memphis has the best defense in the league, it has only one real perimeter defensive stopper in Tony Allen. With Westbrook out, he can concentrate on just Durant. I don't see where the offense is going to come from on the Thunder against this tough Grizzlies defense. Memphis played them tough 2 seasons ago, and I think both Tony Allen and Marc Gasol have improved significantly since then while the Thunder is a much weaker team now.
Prediction: Memphis 4-2
Possible bets: Bet Memphis to win the series. Current price around -125.
Golden State Warriors (6) at San Antonio Spurs (2)
I loved watching the Warriors play in the first round, and Steph Curry is just amazing. But they did have many bouts of sloppy play, and that just won't do against San Antonio. Duncan has been the only real interior defensive presence for the Spurs this year, and the Warriors' lineup plays right into that. Golden State has an exciting team, but it's just not their time yet.
Prediction: San Antonio 4-1
Possible bets: Bet the over on every game. I expect an ungodly amount of three pointers made in this series.
Chicago Bulls (5) at Miami Heat (1)
Chicago actually matches up very well against Miami. They are super stingy on 3 point defense, and Miami's game revolves around a lot of open 3s. Chicago is tough and has strong inside presence versus the Heat's rather thin front line. Unfortunately, the Bulls are super banged up after a grueling series with the Nets. I think the Bulls' hard work ethic and Thibodeau's defensive smarts will keep them from getting swept, but I don't see them lasting longer than 5 games with all their lingering injuries.
Prediction: Miami 4-1
Possible bets: If you can find a book with exact series outcome props, bet Miami to win the series by exactly 4-1.
Indiana Pacers (3) at New York Knicks (2)
I think Bill Simmons summed it up perfectly in his Grantland article.
[The Knicks] are built around 3-pointers, Ray Felton's slash-and-kick game, Melo's one-on-one game, and the ability of Melo and Earl to consistently make TERRIBLE shots ... ... the Knicks are built around [terrible] shots. Which means they can lose any playoff game to anyone at any given time.Indiana has one of the stingiest defenses in the league, and are exceptional at home. Home court advantage will be very key for this series, but the Knicks' ability to "lose any playoff game to anyone at any given time" may prove to be their downfall if they let Indiana steal an early game at MSG. Add to that all the injuries affecting the Knicks right now, and I just think that Indiana rates to win more often than not.
Prediction: Indiana 4-2
Possible bets: Bet the under on every game. Indiana's defense is a given, but the Knicks also showed their defensive prowess against Boston. I would also take Indiana to win the series.
While we're at it, let's see how my first round predictions for the Western and Eastern conferences went.
Overall Series Predictions vs Actual Result:
Prediction Oklahoma City 4-0, Actual Oklahoma City 4-2
Prediction San Antonio 4-0, Actual San Antonio 4-0
Prediction Denver 4-3, Actual Golden State 4-2
Prediction Memphis 4-2 or LA 4-3, Actual Memphis 4-2
Prediction Miami 4-0, Actual Miami 4-0
Prediction New York 4-2, Actual New York 4-2
Prediction Indiana 4-1, Actual Indiana 4-2
Prediction Brooklyn 4-2, Actual Chicago 4-3
I think I did pretty well overall. Let's look at how the bets did:
Over in HOU@OKC games. 1-5 for the series, 0-2 if stopped after Westbrook went down.
Over in LAL@SAS games. 2-2 for the series.
GSW to win the series. At +400, good for 4 units.
MEM 4-2 or LAC 4-3 specifically. Won, but not all books have these bets.
MIL ML+Over parlays for @MIL games small. 0-2. Assume half unit on each bet.
BOS in first @BOS game. 0-1
IND to win the series. Win one unit.
BKN 1H in @BKN games. 2-2 for the series.
Overall results: 7-11 -2.1 unit. 6-9 +0.2 units (Westbrook only)
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Jean-Georges: Tremendous Value, Not Just at Lunch (food)
Most foodies know about the lunch at Jean-Georges, which is often cited as the best value in fine dining in NYC. On a recent visit, I found out that there was tremendous value to be had with the prix fixe dinner as well. First, it should be noted that while the menu online mentions three dishes for $118, it's actually a four course dinner as the price includes dessert. This compares to Le Bernardin's 4-course menu at $127 and Daniel's 3-course menu at $116, which really is 3 courses including dessert.
It's been 4 years since I last went to Jean-Georges. I had the signature tasting menu then, which is still offered exactly as is. On this night, we opted for the prix fixe and added a course each, as this arrangement worked out really well at Daniel. However, this turned out to be too much food at Jean Georges, which is really saying something since I can eat a lot. I also wanted to mention that Jean-Georges Vongerichten himself was in the house cooking in the kitchen that night. He came out to take a photo with the table next to us, and we bought a personally-signed cookbook.
Atmosphere:
The room very much follows the Jean-Georges philosophy. Simple and gorgeous, with fairly neutral tones and colors. The high ceilings and tall windows were lovely, while the view of the greenery outside through the windows provided a nice contrast to the color scheme. The chairs were also very comfortable. The partitioned design with the more casual Nougatine next to us was very smartly done. You can feel the buzz and excitement of being in a trendy chic restaurant, while still having the serenity to concentrate on the food. The lighting at night is a bit tricky because of the high ceilings and large windows. I ended up using flash for my photos, which takes away from the aesthetic but chronicles all that was on the plate (and there was a lot!).
Service:
One of the great things about Jean Georges being the restaurant of the Trump International Hotel is that the hospitality begins as you get out of the car, even before you enter the restaurant. The service is professional and confident throughout. While the service is a bit more old-fashioned and not actively engaging like at Eleven Madison Park, they respond very well when engaged and are not stiff at all, which can occasionally be a problem at Le Bernardin. We were not the easiest of guests to deal with as we had many restrictions and ideas about how to approach the menu, but they handled us very well and with great attention to detail.
Food:
AMUSE
From my memory, there was a broccoli cream soup, a rhubarb sushi, and something that I forgot. Nothing was particularly memorable, and I thought the sushi rice was mediocre.
BREAD
A decent selection of bread, but nothing special. My favorite was the pretzel bread.
SEA SCALLOPS, CARAMELIZED CAULIFLOWER AND CAPER-RAISIN EMULSION
One of Jean Georges' classic dishes and a staple on the signature dishes tasting menu.
GREEN ASPARAGUS WITH MORELS AND ASPARAGUS JUS ($20 supplement)
We had these prepared two ways for my friends with different dietary restrictions.
SEA TROUT AND OYSTER TARTAR, LEMON, HORSERADISH AND CHIVE
I left one course to be at the discretion of the chef. I hadn't been to the restaurant in quite a while, and wanted to see what kind of dish represents what Jean Georges is doing now culinarily. The chef chose this, and it was a perfect first course. The food at Jean-Georges has been described as "vibrant and spare", and this was a great example. Jean-Georges is at its best straddling the line between French and Asian. Here, the flavors were bright, clean, and appetizing, while the textures were meaty and rich. The sweetness and ocean-y flavors of the fish and oyster pieces came through without the overuse of soy or caviar or mincing of the flesh that is often seen in many Asian-inspired tartars (even at Masa). Elegant, simple, yet still inventive. It was also a fairly sizable portion for a first course, a theme that I will revisit many times in this review to illustrate the tremendous value on offer.
SWEET PEA SOUP, SOURDOUGH CROUTONS, PARMESAN
Some of the best soups I've had were at fine dining restaurants, most notably L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. While this was very good, it didn't feel special. It was very well executed, with creaminess and crunch highlighting the sweetness.
FOIE GRAS BRULE, DRIED SOUR CHERRIES, CANDIED PISTACHIOS AND WHITE PORT GELEE
I never quite understood foie terrines/torchons as first courses as I often find them to be too rich. I'm glad this course came after the tartar because this was one of the richest ones I've had yet. While there is brioche at the bottom, it is still a huge puck of densely packed foie. I was actually surprised at how strongly the minerally foie flavor came through, and the equally strong candied pistachio top was needed to keep up with it. Unfortunately, with such strong foie and sweet tones, the port gelee and sour cherries were not enough of a sour component to balance it all out for me. It was still very delicious, but noticeably heavy.
TURBOT WITH CHATEAU CHALON SAUCE
TURBOT WITH BLACK BEANS AND ARTICHOKE
Once again, two different preparations for my friends with different dietary restrictions. The one with the chateau chalon sauce is another classic Jean-Georges dish from the signature dishes tasting menu. For my other friend, the chef created a completely new preparation that wasn't on the menu, as he wouldn't compromise a dish by just removing one component that my friend couldn't eat. I thought that was a nice touch. The second preparation had a bit of a fermented black bean taste, which went great with the fish, but was not a novel flavor for me as I'm well-versed in Chinese flavors. Once again I thought the filets were much larger in size than they needed to be for a second course of four. They were comparable in size to the main entrees at Le Bernardin!
SLOWLY COOKED BLACK COD, SPRING LETTUCE PUREE, HERBAL-LIME VINAIGRETTE
As we navigated the available dishes on the menu, we were warned on more than one occasion that certain dishes would be spicy. I thought that was great and another example that Jean-Georges was continuing to push and invent, and not just coast on its reputation or one specific style. While the culinary world has certainly embraced spiciness in recent years (too much so in my opinion), I find that it is still not as prominent in high end fine dining, so it was good to see.
SALT AND PEPPER SWEETBREADS, SWEET CHILI EMULSION, PEA SHOOTS AND GOLDEN GARLIC
This was the most disappointing dish of the night by far. It wasn't bad, it was just ordinary. Very ordinary. The sweetbreads had a light flour coating that was fried to a rather limp state, and in no way aided or highlighted the unique texture of sweetbreads. The sweet chili emulsion lacked the depth that I hope to experience when I eat a version of an Asian sauce in a Western fine dining establishment. The pea shoots were fine but simple, and the golden garlic was no different than what you would get at a decent Chinese restaurant. I mentioned that I think they are at their best straddling the line between French and Asian, but it appears that there is a significant drop off when they cross directly into Asian cooking, as evidenced by this dish and the sushi rice in the amuse.
At this point, we were full. We probably wouldn't have been able to finish our entrees, and we certainly wouldn't have been able to touch dessert if we tried. So we decided to take our entrees to go after they plated them. Perhaps this is another perk of being affiliated with the hotel, but they handled it all expertly, and in no way made us feel like we were doing something awkward. All our main proteins were carved and plated beautifully tableside.
DUCK BREAST TOPPED WITH CRACKED JORDAN ALMONDS, AMARETTO JUS
The duck was perfectly cooked to the desired temperature. The almond crust on top might be too sweet for some, but it provided a great crunch. Going back to the concept of value, there was a huge lobe of seared foie gras that wasn't even mentioned in the menu description!
ROASTED LOIN OF LAMB, CRUNCHY POLENTA, RED WINE-SMOKED CHILI GLAZE
GENTLY SMOKED SQUAB WITH WILD MUSHROOMS AND BASIL
Ever since I was a kid, I've eaten a lot of squab. Prepared in all kinds of ways, from fried, braised in soy sauce, braised in master stock, served with "swiss" sauce, to pan roasted with crispy skin at Brooklyn Fare. This smoked squab from Jean-Georges was the one of the best I've ever had. Light and fragrant with a slight smoke flavor that permeated throughout the meat. Incredibly juicy meat that was still wonderfully tender even after I took it home. Perfect texture on the smoked skin that was toothsome with a little snap, like well-cooked shrimp. I frequently judge composed meat dishes by the accompaniments, but the protein stole the show here, even with the wild mushrooms being very delicious.
The squab was huge, and had me wondering whether it was actually a pigeon (difference between squab and pigeon is an age thing, like veal and beef). They carved the whole bird tableside, and served the two sides over the wild mushrooms. I specifically asked to have the carcass, which they had no problems with, although they did note that it is not part of the original presentation of the dish. Boy am I glad I took it! There was still some decent meat left on the bones and it was even more concentrated in flavor. This was finger lickin' good 3 Michelin Star smoked squab brought home!
DESSERT AMUSE
Small assortment of fruit sorbets, including coconut, passionfruit, and other flavors.
CHOCOLATE TASTING: 35%, 40%, 64%, 66%, 70%, 100%
The only description of the tasting on the menu were the different concentrations. If I remember correctly, there was a white chocolate ice cream, milk chocolate sponge cake, dark chocolate tart with red wine sorbet, and classic Jean Georges molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. This was just a great tasting that explored all kinds of textures and chocolate flavor concentrations and combinations. Chocolate desserts are usually one of the most boring choices in a restaurant, but that was not the case here!
CARAMEL TASTING:
SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM, SPUN CARAMEL
BLACK PEPPER CREME CARAMEL
PAIN PERDU, BANANA FOSTER CARAMEL
HAZELNUT SPONGE CAKE, MILK CHOCOLATE CREAM, CRUNCHY PRALINE
MIGNARDISES
Featuring vanilla marshmallows that are also a signature of Jean-Georges.
Value might not be the first thing that comes to mind when talking about dinner at an almost two-decade-old fine dining restaurant in the Trump International Hotel. But that's exactly what you'll find with the prix fixe menu at Jean-Georges. The portions are huge, bigger than all the other comparable top tier restaurants in NYC. When you factor in the different components to each dessert option, you're getting almost as much variety from the prix fixe here as a tasting menu at a slightly less ambitious restaurant. The setting is great and the food is delicious and inventive, yet simple and elegant in philosophy.
There are two things that I would caution, though. First is that I would avoid the dishes that are decidedly Asian as opposed to dishes that are a marriage of French and Asian techniques and flavors. Second, and it relates specifically to this meal I had, I don't know how much of a difference it was that JGV was actually in-house and that we bought a signed cookbook.
1 Central Park W
New York, 10023
It's been 4 years since I last went to Jean-Georges. I had the signature tasting menu then, which is still offered exactly as is. On this night, we opted for the prix fixe and added a course each, as this arrangement worked out really well at Daniel. However, this turned out to be too much food at Jean Georges, which is really saying something since I can eat a lot. I also wanted to mention that Jean-Georges Vongerichten himself was in the house cooking in the kitchen that night. He came out to take a photo with the table next to us, and we bought a personally-signed cookbook.
Atmosphere:
The room very much follows the Jean-Georges philosophy. Simple and gorgeous, with fairly neutral tones and colors. The high ceilings and tall windows were lovely, while the view of the greenery outside through the windows provided a nice contrast to the color scheme. The chairs were also very comfortable. The partitioned design with the more casual Nougatine next to us was very smartly done. You can feel the buzz and excitement of being in a trendy chic restaurant, while still having the serenity to concentrate on the food. The lighting at night is a bit tricky because of the high ceilings and large windows. I ended up using flash for my photos, which takes away from the aesthetic but chronicles all that was on the plate (and there was a lot!).
Service:
One of the great things about Jean Georges being the restaurant of the Trump International Hotel is that the hospitality begins as you get out of the car, even before you enter the restaurant. The service is professional and confident throughout. While the service is a bit more old-fashioned and not actively engaging like at Eleven Madison Park, they respond very well when engaged and are not stiff at all, which can occasionally be a problem at Le Bernardin. We were not the easiest of guests to deal with as we had many restrictions and ideas about how to approach the menu, but they handled us very well and with great attention to detail.
Food:
From my memory, there was a broccoli cream soup, a rhubarb sushi, and something that I forgot. Nothing was particularly memorable, and I thought the sushi rice was mediocre.
A decent selection of bread, but nothing special. My favorite was the pretzel bread.
One of Jean Georges' classic dishes and a staple on the signature dishes tasting menu.
GREEN ASPARAGUS WITH MORELS AND ASPARAGUS JUS ($20 supplement)
We had these prepared two ways for my friends with different dietary restrictions.
I left one course to be at the discretion of the chef. I hadn't been to the restaurant in quite a while, and wanted to see what kind of dish represents what Jean Georges is doing now culinarily. The chef chose this, and it was a perfect first course. The food at Jean-Georges has been described as "vibrant and spare", and this was a great example. Jean-Georges is at its best straddling the line between French and Asian. Here, the flavors were bright, clean, and appetizing, while the textures were meaty and rich. The sweetness and ocean-y flavors of the fish and oyster pieces came through without the overuse of soy or caviar or mincing of the flesh that is often seen in many Asian-inspired tartars (even at Masa). Elegant, simple, yet still inventive. It was also a fairly sizable portion for a first course, a theme that I will revisit many times in this review to illustrate the tremendous value on offer.
Some of the best soups I've had were at fine dining restaurants, most notably L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. While this was very good, it didn't feel special. It was very well executed, with creaminess and crunch highlighting the sweetness.
FOIE GRAS BRULE, DRIED SOUR CHERRIES, CANDIED PISTACHIOS AND WHITE PORT GELEE
I never quite understood foie terrines/torchons as first courses as I often find them to be too rich. I'm glad this course came after the tartar because this was one of the richest ones I've had yet. While there is brioche at the bottom, it is still a huge puck of densely packed foie. I was actually surprised at how strongly the minerally foie flavor came through, and the equally strong candied pistachio top was needed to keep up with it. Unfortunately, with such strong foie and sweet tones, the port gelee and sour cherries were not enough of a sour component to balance it all out for me. It was still very delicious, but noticeably heavy.
TURBOT WITH CHATEAU CHALON SAUCE
TURBOT WITH BLACK BEANS AND ARTICHOKE
Once again, two different preparations for my friends with different dietary restrictions. The one with the chateau chalon sauce is another classic Jean-Georges dish from the signature dishes tasting menu. For my other friend, the chef created a completely new preparation that wasn't on the menu, as he wouldn't compromise a dish by just removing one component that my friend couldn't eat. I thought that was a nice touch. The second preparation had a bit of a fermented black bean taste, which went great with the fish, but was not a novel flavor for me as I'm well-versed in Chinese flavors. Once again I thought the filets were much larger in size than they needed to be for a second course of four. They were comparable in size to the main entrees at Le Bernardin!
As we navigated the available dishes on the menu, we were warned on more than one occasion that certain dishes would be spicy. I thought that was great and another example that Jean-Georges was continuing to push and invent, and not just coast on its reputation or one specific style. While the culinary world has certainly embraced spiciness in recent years (too much so in my opinion), I find that it is still not as prominent in high end fine dining, so it was good to see.
This was the most disappointing dish of the night by far. It wasn't bad, it was just ordinary. Very ordinary. The sweetbreads had a light flour coating that was fried to a rather limp state, and in no way aided or highlighted the unique texture of sweetbreads. The sweet chili emulsion lacked the depth that I hope to experience when I eat a version of an Asian sauce in a Western fine dining establishment. The pea shoots were fine but simple, and the golden garlic was no different than what you would get at a decent Chinese restaurant. I mentioned that I think they are at their best straddling the line between French and Asian, but it appears that there is a significant drop off when they cross directly into Asian cooking, as evidenced by this dish and the sushi rice in the amuse.
At this point, we were full. We probably wouldn't have been able to finish our entrees, and we certainly wouldn't have been able to touch dessert if we tried. So we decided to take our entrees to go after they plated them. Perhaps this is another perk of being affiliated with the hotel, but they handled it all expertly, and in no way made us feel like we were doing something awkward. All our main proteins were carved and plated beautifully tableside.
DUCK BREAST TOPPED WITH CRACKED JORDAN ALMONDS, AMARETTO JUS
The duck was perfectly cooked to the desired temperature. The almond crust on top might be too sweet for some, but it provided a great crunch. Going back to the concept of value, there was a huge lobe of seared foie gras that wasn't even mentioned in the menu description!
GENTLY SMOKED SQUAB WITH WILD MUSHROOMS AND BASIL
Ever since I was a kid, I've eaten a lot of squab. Prepared in all kinds of ways, from fried, braised in soy sauce, braised in master stock, served with "swiss" sauce, to pan roasted with crispy skin at Brooklyn Fare. This smoked squab from Jean-Georges was the one of the best I've ever had. Light and fragrant with a slight smoke flavor that permeated throughout the meat. Incredibly juicy meat that was still wonderfully tender even after I took it home. Perfect texture on the smoked skin that was toothsome with a little snap, like well-cooked shrimp. I frequently judge composed meat dishes by the accompaniments, but the protein stole the show here, even with the wild mushrooms being very delicious.
The squab was huge, and had me wondering whether it was actually a pigeon (difference between squab and pigeon is an age thing, like veal and beef). They carved the whole bird tableside, and served the two sides over the wild mushrooms. I specifically asked to have the carcass, which they had no problems with, although they did note that it is not part of the original presentation of the dish. Boy am I glad I took it! There was still some decent meat left on the bones and it was even more concentrated in flavor. This was finger lickin' good 3 Michelin Star smoked squab brought home!
Small assortment of fruit sorbets, including coconut, passionfruit, and other flavors.
The only description of the tasting on the menu were the different concentrations. If I remember correctly, there was a white chocolate ice cream, milk chocolate sponge cake, dark chocolate tart with red wine sorbet, and classic Jean Georges molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. This was just a great tasting that explored all kinds of textures and chocolate flavor concentrations and combinations. Chocolate desserts are usually one of the most boring choices in a restaurant, but that was not the case here!
SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM, SPUN CARAMEL
BLACK PEPPER CREME CARAMEL
PAIN PERDU, BANANA FOSTER CARAMEL
HAZELNUT SPONGE CAKE, MILK CHOCOLATE CREAM, CRUNCHY PRALINE
MIGNARDISES
Featuring vanilla marshmallows that are also a signature of Jean-Georges.
Value might not be the first thing that comes to mind when talking about dinner at an almost two-decade-old fine dining restaurant in the Trump International Hotel. But that's exactly what you'll find with the prix fixe menu at Jean-Georges. The portions are huge, bigger than all the other comparable top tier restaurants in NYC. When you factor in the different components to each dessert option, you're getting almost as much variety from the prix fixe here as a tasting menu at a slightly less ambitious restaurant. The setting is great and the food is delicious and inventive, yet simple and elegant in philosophy.
There are two things that I would caution, though. First is that I would avoid the dishes that are decidedly Asian as opposed to dishes that are a marriage of French and Asian techniques and flavors. Second, and it relates specifically to this meal I had, I don't know how much of a difference it was that JGV was actually in-house and that we bought a signed cookbook.
1 Central Park W
New York, 10023
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Rant: TMobile and Other Wireless Carriers (economics/politics, rambling)
This is about my experience last week as I went to my local TMobile store to add $ to my prepaid cell phone. But more than that, I found out about an industry-wide practice that I think is just wrong and should be corrected.
It all started when the previous prepaid plan I bought had expired. I didn't know it at the time because the only notification I got was one text message. Since I never use the phone for texting, it never occurred to me to open it. While at the store, it didn't help that the salesperson didn't really know what any of the plans/rates were, and kept having to ask the store manager in the back. When she finally pulled up my account on her screen, she said that it showed I was on a 10cent/min plan. Since I don't use this second cell phone very often, I decided to only add $15 worth.
So the transaction is done and then I get a text message notifying me of my balance. Except it lists only 52 minutes for my $15. So the salesperson calls in to customer service, and it turns out that unless you buy the $100/1000 minute plan, the rates are higher. The salesperson didn't seem to be able to do anything about it, and as my voice got louder with frustration, the manager came out from the back.
The solution seemed simple enough to me. I wanted a refund. If I had gotten the correct quote, I probably would have made a different decision, and I clearly deserved the opportunity to make an informed decision. Except that the manager's reply was, "Prepaid transactions cannot be refunded. Every major carrier has this same policy." WHAT!? This wasn't a simple case of buyer's remorse. I informed him that this was their fault since they gave me the wrong quote. To which he REPEATED, "Prepaid transactions cannot be refunded. Every major carrier has this same policy."
At this point, I really was yelling because this was so inane. "Do you think Consumer Affairs cares about your policy? Your salesperson gave me the wrong quote. Call customer service, there has to be someone higher ranking who can fix this." Defeatedly, the store manager calls in to the customer service rep, who gives me 150 minutes for my $15. While I accepted this solution because I didn't want to bother with it anymore, in my mind, this was still wrong. How is it that I still had no choice in the matter? The manager didn't tell me what he was doing until it was done, but what if it's not what I wanted? What if I just wanted to get my money back and take my business elsewhere? How is that not an option?
To sum up all the things I thought were wrong about the encounter:
1. Lack of customer service. It's bad enough that the store manager didn't actually train his employees to be up-to-date on the things they offered, but at least the salesperson tried. The manager should have realized they made a mistake and actively tried to resolve it, instead of quoting "policy" and trying to get away with it until he couldn't.
2. Which leads to a bigger problem with corporations in general. It's all about "getting away with what they can", as opposed to developing real, beneficial relationships with their clients. This happens more often than not, and is shielded by, "Everyone else does it."
3. Which was the exact excuse the store manager used. "Every major carrier has this same policy." How is this even an acceptable industry-wide practice? How can something that (I assume) can be easily reversed in the computer system not have a refund policy of some sort? How does the FTC allow this? Or worse, was the store manager just bullshtting me?
It all started when the previous prepaid plan I bought had expired. I didn't know it at the time because the only notification I got was one text message. Since I never use the phone for texting, it never occurred to me to open it. While at the store, it didn't help that the salesperson didn't really know what any of the plans/rates were, and kept having to ask the store manager in the back. When she finally pulled up my account on her screen, she said that it showed I was on a 10cent/min plan. Since I don't use this second cell phone very often, I decided to only add $15 worth.
So the transaction is done and then I get a text message notifying me of my balance. Except it lists only 52 minutes for my $15. So the salesperson calls in to customer service, and it turns out that unless you buy the $100/1000 minute plan, the rates are higher. The salesperson didn't seem to be able to do anything about it, and as my voice got louder with frustration, the manager came out from the back.
The solution seemed simple enough to me. I wanted a refund. If I had gotten the correct quote, I probably would have made a different decision, and I clearly deserved the opportunity to make an informed decision. Except that the manager's reply was, "Prepaid transactions cannot be refunded. Every major carrier has this same policy." WHAT!? This wasn't a simple case of buyer's remorse. I informed him that this was their fault since they gave me the wrong quote. To which he REPEATED, "Prepaid transactions cannot be refunded. Every major carrier has this same policy."
At this point, I really was yelling because this was so inane. "Do you think Consumer Affairs cares about your policy? Your salesperson gave me the wrong quote. Call customer service, there has to be someone higher ranking who can fix this." Defeatedly, the store manager calls in to the customer service rep, who gives me 150 minutes for my $15. While I accepted this solution because I didn't want to bother with it anymore, in my mind, this was still wrong. How is it that I still had no choice in the matter? The manager didn't tell me what he was doing until it was done, but what if it's not what I wanted? What if I just wanted to get my money back and take my business elsewhere? How is that not an option?
To sum up all the things I thought were wrong about the encounter:
1. Lack of customer service. It's bad enough that the store manager didn't actually train his employees to be up-to-date on the things they offered, but at least the salesperson tried. The manager should have realized they made a mistake and actively tried to resolve it, instead of quoting "policy" and trying to get away with it until he couldn't.
2. Which leads to a bigger problem with corporations in general. It's all about "getting away with what they can", as opposed to developing real, beneficial relationships with their clients. This happens more often than not, and is shielded by, "Everyone else does it."
3. Which was the exact excuse the store manager used. "Every major carrier has this same policy." How is this even an acceptable industry-wide practice? How can something that (I assume) can be easily reversed in the computer system not have a refund policy of some sort? How does the FTC allow this? Or worse, was the store manager just bullshtting me?
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Date Spot: Millesime (food)
Everyone has different views about what constitutes a great date spot. Some like it formal, some like it casual, some like it trendy. Everyone is different. So I'm going to first list what I think are the advantages of Millesime as a date spot before getting to the food.
1. It's in a nice location. It's in the Carlton Hotel in the Midtown/Murray Hill area. There's a nice lounge downstairs as well.
2. It's on Savored. That means 20% off food and drink (although an 18% pre-discount gratuity is added)
3. Its brasserie decor can be considered both a casual and upscale setting.
4. It's not full. Been there on Saturday nights with no problem getting a table on short notice. Good for those without time to make elaborate plans while not wanting to wait an hour plus for a table like at many other places.
Regardless of whether those points appeal to you, the food is actually quite nice.
LE PLATEAU NORMAL
Serves 2-3 according to the menu, it features 3 East coast oysters, 3 West coast oysters, 3 Cherrystone clams, 3 Littleneck clams, 4 large shrimp cocktail, and about 6 small mussels. It comes with 3 sauces, tiny bottles of tabasco (awesome!), and lemon wedges. Not bad for $40 in a hotel restaurant.
The platter also comes with toasted bread and a tasty red wine butter spread.
CAESAR GRILLE
One of the signature dishes of the restaurant, this play on a Caesar salad features grilled romaine, smoked cod, parmesan, and lime. While I'm not a huge fan of the presentation, the flavors were nice and clean. I'm sure it's better when the romaine is in season. The third portion is hard to split between two people though.
QUENELLE JEAN-LOUIS
It's getting harder and harder to find classics these days. Two decent-sized pike quenelles, with a pleasant smooth texture, are simmered in a delicate lobster sauce.
In addition to their regular menu, they have a chef's table as well as a $1 Oyster Happy Hour on weeknights.
Millesime
92 Madison Ave
(between 28th St & 29th St)
New York, NY 10016
1. It's in a nice location. It's in the Carlton Hotel in the Midtown/Murray Hill area. There's a nice lounge downstairs as well.
2. It's on Savored. That means 20% off food and drink (although an 18% pre-discount gratuity is added)
3. Its brasserie decor can be considered both a casual and upscale setting.
4. It's not full. Been there on Saturday nights with no problem getting a table on short notice. Good for those without time to make elaborate plans while not wanting to wait an hour plus for a table like at many other places.
Regardless of whether those points appeal to you, the food is actually quite nice.
Serves 2-3 according to the menu, it features 3 East coast oysters, 3 West coast oysters, 3 Cherrystone clams, 3 Littleneck clams, 4 large shrimp cocktail, and about 6 small mussels. It comes with 3 sauces, tiny bottles of tabasco (awesome!), and lemon wedges. Not bad for $40 in a hotel restaurant.
One of the signature dishes of the restaurant, this play on a Caesar salad features grilled romaine, smoked cod, parmesan, and lime. While I'm not a huge fan of the presentation, the flavors were nice and clean. I'm sure it's better when the romaine is in season. The third portion is hard to split between two people though.
It's getting harder and harder to find classics these days. Two decent-sized pike quenelles, with a pleasant smooth texture, are simmered in a delicate lobster sauce.
In addition to their regular menu, they have a chef's table as well as a $1 Oyster Happy Hour on weeknights.
Millesime
92 Madison Ave
(between 28th St & 29th St)
New York, NY 10016
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